Tips & Tricks for your kayak or inflatable pontoon boat

 Building a Better Kayak Lift ............................. by J. Hall

Okay! Let's get started on this project as it will only take half a day to complete.

 First, you will need ( 1 ) 2" x 4" at 8' long.

Next, using a measuring tape, measure to 40" long and cut. You will need ( 2 ) pieces at 40" in length.

After you've made your cut, measure to 20" (halfway point) and mark. Make sure you're centered both length & width.

From the center, measure about 2½" to the left, and to the right. Mark those areas good.

This is what you should have: One mark at 17½" long, and the other mark at 22½" long.

Flip the board over and make a mark at 1" from the outer edge. Also, making sure this mark is centered correctly.

Start drilling your holes using a 5/16" drill bit.

I chose the 5/16" x 4" long Lag Thread Screw Hooks, because they're rated at 125 lbs each. You will need ( 4 ) of these.

Place ( 2 ) Eye Screw Hooks at the ends of each board. Once you guide the screws in straight, use a wrench to thread the hook in the rest of the way, until the thread doesn't show anymore.

Flip the board over and drill the holes for the #2 Eye Screws using a 5/16" drill bit. You will need ( 4 ) these.

Use a wrench to tighten the eye screws flush with the wood.

When done, the eye screws should be level side by side. This is the finished product.

Place the lift hooks through the screw eyes on top.

* * * NOTE * * * : You will have to adjust the chains to get the kayak to sit as high up as possible (close to the board's bottom edge).  You may have to trim some of the vinyl's sleeve to expose the chain's link so as to hook it just right. Some slack may be present due to the size/shape of your kayak.

This is the finished product.

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Adding a rod holder to your inflatable pontoon boat .... by J. Hall

We've all seen those inflatable pontoon boats that various online sellers aim to target fishermen everywhere. While a small majority of people seem interested in these little boats for fishing, there's a small problem that needs to be addressed, where do you put your fishing pole? Unlike the previous article, you will need to pick up a few attachments from Scotty Products - a popular aftermarket accessory maker for kayaks, to fully benefit this how-to.

Here's what you'll need:

( 1 ) # 242 Rail Mount

( 1 ) # 459 Adjustable Rod Holder Extender

( 1 ) # 280 Baitcaster/Spinning Reel Holder (this already comes with the # 241 base, which you'll need)

 Let's get started! This won't take long (minimum 10 minutes)!

Assuming you've already assembled your pontoon boat, you can place (# 242) Rail Mount & (# 241) Side Deck Mount parts to the frame tube closest to you. Be sure to angle the (# 459) Adjustable Rod Holder Extender out of the way of the oar handles so they're not in the way while you row. You can add the Rod Extender & the (# 280) Rod Holder after you've rowed out to your spot.

Here's a couple of pix of the set-up I made for a friend. They then informed the pontoon maker's company of the cool set-up I invented for their craft.

 * * * NOTE : The Rail Mount pictured here is not a Scotty Product mount. This one was a prototype mount. The parts I listed above will work out better for you.

 With the help of Scotty Products, there are a multitude of ideas that can be incorporated by a few simple changes to the products you choose (fish finders, extra rod holders, bow/stern lights, GPS, etc.). The possibilities are endless!

If you need help with anything in this article, you may contact me here: Sidewinder1167@aol.com , ask for Jeff.

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How to make a Rod Leash ...................................................... by J. Hall

There's nothing worse than going out on the water to your favorite spot and baiting your pole, casting the line, and setting your rod down so you can set up another pole, only to have a fish bite (on the first pole you set up) and bobble your rod into the water. While your pole, reel, and favorite lure head down to the bottom of the deep, you should have clipped on a rod leash. Here's a really inexpensive way to keep your gear where it belongs without shelling out $30 - and it only costs $6 to make.

Here's what you'll need:

( 1 ) Pair of pliers

( 1 ) Wire Cutters

( 1 ) 24" L Coiled Cord (from a broken Cellphone Charger or CB Radio mic)

( 4 ) Small Zip Ties

( 2 ) 3" L Snap Hooks (Dog Leash Clips)

( 1 ) Medium Duty File (not shown)

 First, start by cutting off the ends of the cord by removing the plug and the speaker.

I used 3" L Snap Hooks with a 70 lb weight rating.

Take the cord end and feed it through the snap hook's loop end and hold it into place as shown.

Take 2 small zip ties and take up the slack as shown using your pliers. Make sure the ties are tight. Repeat for the other side.

When finished, take your wire cutters and snip off the excess zip tie ends. To remove the sharp edge off the zip tie ends, use a file. File down until smooth.

This is the finished product. You may also use an old lamp cord, if you wish, cut to 24" length and split the cord in two.

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